Windows 10 Home OEM vs Full … This is a question that has plagued even myself. What is the difference between the OEM and Full version of an Operating System? Why do people always goes for OEM?
Windows 10 Home OEM vs Full Version
It is really simple to understand. The OEM is mainly aimed at small, mid, or big computer system builders — whether it is the electronics shop near your neighborhood, your nearest RadioShack store, or Lenovo/DELL/whatnot. Microsoft doesn’t really want you (normal user) to buy and install the OEM.
The reason for this is that the OEM is a license that only allows you to install it on a computer system, and it stays with that computer system until the computer system dies, or until you decide to buy a new hard drive. It is at that point when you install a new hard drive that you realize … uh-oh! I have to buy a new Windows OS? What the [BEEP]!!!
Right now the Windows 10 Home OEM costs around $96 and the Windows 10 Pro OEM costs around $120. Please, please — do NOT buy the OEM version. Huge mistake. Don’t get tempted by the accessible price tag. It is intended for PC builders who sell computers.
Personally, I went with the G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series. If you are confused on which RAM to use for your new ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING Motherboard then this article might come handy. The confusion mainly comes from the Intel Core i5-6600K specs page which says “Supports 2133Mhz Dual-Channel DDR4 RAM” in contrast with the ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING specs page which says “Supports DDR4 3200Mhz.” Conflicting specs. Who to listen to: The CPU or the Motherboard specs?
There are many RAM brands in the market like G.SKILL, CORSAIR, Patriot, HyperX, Crucial and Mushkin — to name a few.
However, when you run a search for RAM in Newegg or Amazon supporting 3200Mhz for the ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING motherboard, you will only find a variety of G.SKILL, and CORSAIR kits dominating the pages.
Name of the game in this article is Build it Yourself. In this series of articles, you will learn how to build a low-budget Gaming Rig under $1,500. Personally, I despise buying a computer system through third-party companies that assemble it for you. There are some known brand names out there. I have had experience dealing with two of them: HP and DELL. On the HP front — after their aweful customer service, two fried RADEON 9800 video cards due to their horrible no-airflow cases and crappy power supply, a failed repair after shipping it to HP, and further problems — I decided to build my own computer rig back in 2008, in preparation for World of Warcraft: Burning Crusade.
That was 7 years ago, and Blizzard Entertainment has released many new games since then: Heroes of the Storm, World of Warcraft: Warlords of Draenor, Diablo III: Reapers of Soul, StarCraft II: Legacy of the Void… and soon, Overwatch.
I’m currently an Overwatch Alpha Tester and a World of Warcraft: Legion Alpha Tester. Both games run pretty well on my current system, but I wish to upgrade to be able to livestream, or to record video without causing CPU lag; or lag with Firefox/Chrome and Adobe Photoshop CC open while doing all that activity.
That CPU lag is a sign that I truly need a new system with better CPU clock speeds than what I currently have in my 7-year old computer system:
In this article, I chose the Intel Core i5-6600K.**
Intel or AMD CPU? This has been a long-time dilemma and theme of debate. All you need to do is type “Intel vs AMD for Gaming” in your favorite search engine (topped by Tomshardware, Digitaltrends, Techradar, PCGamer and PCAdvisor.Co.UK), and you will see why I decided to go with an Intel Core i5 for a low-budget gaming rig — specifically picked for my gaming and video editing/recording needs.
When you want to build a gaming rig, the first thing that should come to mind is what the heart of the rig is going to be: the CPU. Your main focus has to be the latest technology at the moment of your soulsearching taking in mind that you want this rig to last you at least 7 years, before spending money again on the latest better technology on the block that far ahead.
There are three Intel Core types: i3, i5 and i7. In terms of Gaming CPUs, you want to settle for i5 or i7. The i5 is more like a budget gaming CPU in the $250 – $270 alley, while the i7 is the $400+ gorilla gaming CPU. However, i7 is mostly sought after by video editors, filmmakers, and 3D artists.
Here’s how I chose the ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING motherboard. I spent weeks looking around different computer parts review sites such as HardOCP, and the name ASUS keeps ringing my ears. I have been a loyal EVGA fanboy since 2008, but I decided to open up to what other manufacturers have on the table at the moment. I might have a review for the latest EVGA Z170 sometime soon to compare.
How exactly do you come to know which motherboard among the vast variety of brands and models can you choose from to thin out the options?
First, you research what are the latest CPUs out there. I am a bit worried that Intel is abandoning the PC CPU scene, but decided to go with the 6th-Generation Intel CPU instead of an AMD CPU. Intel is just ahead of anything AMD has come up with in terms of technology. AMD is a bit slower shipping out new technologies, so I’d rather go with the flow until I need a new computer years from now.
This is what Matt Smith from Digital Trends says: “I don’t recommend buying an AMD processor if high-end gaming is your goal.”
In my particular taste, I am going with an upgrade to my current Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced full tower case. It’s hard to believe I can find something better than that — I simply love it; but I found something that feels better on paper (spec description), and the photos show that there is plenty of fans and airflow that makes the jump to upgrade the HAF case worth it.
I already ordered this case, and it’s on its way to my door this Monday, Jan 4th.
When it comes to Gaming Cases — you heard it… “Gaming Cases,” you need massive airflow: plenty of internal fans, and fan connectors for your CPU and whatnot. The idea of a “Gaming Case” is to keep your CPU, and Graphic Card as cool as humanly possible. These two components are the heart of your system. If they overheat too much, your gaming experience is laggy. Framerates drop drastically. Eventually, the overheating will kill your PC.
There are at least three TOP companies that manufacture these cases with Gamers in mind. You would never go wrong buying from them: Thermaltake, Cool Master, and Antec. There is a fourth one that escapes my memory which makes the most expensive ones, but since we are tinkering with low cost and best-bang-for-your-buck parts, then it’s good I forgot.
If your HP or [other company]-assembled computer is slow, your graphic card is getting really hot, then know that that crappy computer case was designed to be an oven, and not to be a gaming system. There is no common-sense airflow design in those. Tells you someone who has seen two HP computers overheat to death, and two RADEON 9800s dead before 2008. So what did enamore me so much that I went with buying the Thermaltake Core V71? Airflow, Airflow, Airflow is the love word.
Also its Low cost ($119 — usually $159) — that’s a bang for your buck there. But it also has other features such as screwless and tool-free drive bays. Man, I love that. Swap hard disks in and out with no hassle, or: “Damn, where is that missing screw gone to.”
On the front, it has three 200mm LED fans and a 140mm fan which pushes airflow from the front to the back of the computer — cooling your hard drives and pushing air toward your CPU fan and graphic card.
Build it Yourself – Gaming Computer Case
If that’s not enough, then how about options to expand adding more fans on the bottom and the top of the case? Noctua makes some good ones. You also have options and space to add a water cooling system at a later time, if you wish to.
Better yet, the front and bottom fans have dust filters that you can detach and clean.
The Drive Bays are modular. Meaning you can remove the bays from the chassis to and customize your space in the interior.
If you read the case specifications below, this mammoth is an e-ATX case but it fits three different motherboard types: e-ATX, ATX and Micro-ATX. So chances of going wrong or buying the wrong motherboard or wrong case is eliminated, making this case valuable. Still, I would double-check the dimensions of the motherboard just in [case] (no pun intended).